Paris Fashion Week: Highlights from the Fall-Winter 2023 menswear shows
The menswear shows in Paris are underway and despite chilling temperatures and a debilitating transit strike, the fashion community is out in full force.
This season’s event, which ends Sunday, offers a number of firsts, including the unexpected debut of Usher’s brightly-hued hair and the much-awaited collaboration between Louis Vuitton and American designer Colm Dillane of KidSuper.
From celebrity sightings to standout collections, read on for our impressions from the shows so far.
Usher’s new neon ‘do
Usher with blood orange hair. Credit: Pierre Suu/Getty Images
The Grammy-award winning artist lit up the front row with his new head of flaming orange hair. Usher debuted his neon, ombre effect look on the first day of shows at Wales Bonner and was spotted again at Bianca Saunders the next day. Wearing the full opening look from last season’s runway, his attendance had photographers clamoring for a shot.
Geometry class at Issey Miyake
A dancing interlude demonstrated movement of the clothes at Issey Miyake’s catwalk. Credit: Victor Virgile/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images
Geometric shapes, with a strong focus on triangles, was the starting point and the impetus for this season’s Homme Plissé Issey Miyake collection‚ showing the many iterations of how triangles and other angular elements can be twisted and manipulated into complex silhouettes and patterns.
Signature pleats, of course, were in abundance from pleated trousers to folded detailing on sleeveless shirts and coats, and larger, looser folds that fell from the shoulders on nylon outerwear.
The show was punctuated with dance performances that showcased how well the garments moved, as performers wove in and around a light show that featured — you guessed it — more geometric shapes.
Jenna Ortega Channeled Grace Jones at Saint Laurent
Jenna Ortega attends the Saint Laurent menswear show in Paris. Credit: Stephane Cardinale/Corbis/Getty
Jenna Ortega, star of the Netflix series “Wednesday,” stepped out in a black hooded, backless gown for Anthony Vaccarello’s first men’s show for Saint Laurent in Paris. The halter-style dress, from the brand’s Spring-Summer 2023 collection, was reminiscent of Grace Jones’ iconic signature look. Sitting front row, the actor was visibly mesmerized by Charlotte Gainsbourg’s piano performance that closed the show.
Rick Owens orthopedic boots
Rick Owens took chunky boots to the extreme at his menswear show. Credit: Victor Virgile/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images
Rick Owens is no stranger to statement shoes — his vertiginous Kiss platforms have become a cult item. This season, the American designer channeled orthopedic glam with a boot that offered a far chunkier silhouette up the leg, featuring thick padding held together with leather buckled straps. Chicest way to recover from a broken foot?
Rosalía rocked Louis Vuitton
Rosalía stole the show at the Louis Vuitton runway. Credit: Stephane Cardinale/Corbis via Getty Images
Spanish popstar Rosalía rocked the roof off the Louvre with her electrifying performance for the Louis Vuitton fashion show, which unveiled a new collection with its first guest creative director, Colm Dillane of KidSuper. The artist opened the show wearing an all-white oversized ensemble and walked the runway with a torch flashing the French brand’s iconic monogram before climbing up onto a yellow car and launching into a rendition of her hit “Candy.”
The Fall-Winter 2023 collection featured a mix of elegant tailoring, utility wear, sports-inspired separates and patchwork coats.
Grown up rave culture at Dries Van Noten
A drum performance by Belgium duo Lander & Adriaan scored the Dries Van Noten show. Credit: Peter White/Getty Images
Music has always been important to Dries Van Noten. Keen followers will remember his Fall-Winter 2011 show, soundtracked by specially mixed David Bowie masters. This season, the Belgium designer explored 90s rave culture with a more grown-up sensibility. Guests went to a multi-level parking garage for the show, stacked with experimental musicians performing mellow techno beats, while beer was offered from a steel cart. At the top, Belgium duo Lander & Adriaan performed what the show notes called “sophisti-rave” on drums and synthesizers. The hypnotic soundtrack set the tone for the new collection that featured flora and fauna motifs, furry clogs, outerwear that ranged from tailored coats with nipped waists to oversized puffer jackets with abstract patterns, and roomy 90s-era cargo pants.
Junya Watanabe unveils Palace collaboration
Junya Wantanabe collaborated with London-based skatewear brand Palace. Credit: Estrop/Getty Images
Junya Watanabe, well known for his extensive list of fashion collaborations, chose to celebrate the many brands he has worked with over the years — including New Balance, Oakley, North Face and Timberland — in a predominantly monochromatic collection. Also spotted on the runway was the unmistakable Tri-Ferg logo from Palace, the London-based skatewear brand, on a black part puffer part parka jacket. Another first.